![]() I have even already said why in my first post but i'll have to explain it better it seems. Regardless the image however clearly shows that there is no editing required to make pictures really pop.Īnyway, i kinda drifted away from the my statement that sharpening filters are pointless. The image is pretty sharp and the colors do really pop although the sharpness could be better if she had taken the picture in higher resolution which i assume wasn't possible due to it requiring a lot more horsepower and possibly being impossible to keep up the depth of field blur with higher resolutions. I didn't take one of my pictures because i can already hear someone shouting i'm cheating because i know the in-and-outs of my own Viewer. This image (just like all images i keep showcasing from my users) are completely unedited (aside from cropping or scaling down). I didn't even need to look for long to find you an example from one of my Viewer's users, KT Syakumi ![]() As Chic already mentioned, taking a picture at higher resolutions is also a good way to "sharpen" the image if you're going to scale it down to viewable resolutions again. A sharp image on the other hand depends on what you define as "unsharp" in the image, if after tuning the colors you still aren't seeing a "sharp" image you might want to start playing with the Post Process Glow settings, especially in Black Dragon as they are default configured to be wider, softer and more ambient than the default glow settings found in other Viewers, this can create a "softer" image something i suppose you want to get rid of when you say "sharp". The easiest way to make your image pop is tuning the colors, both Firestorm and Black Dragon can do that via the Exodus Post Processing stack (Color Correction and Tone Mapping). It's a lot of fiddling depending on what you define as "sharp" and "making it pop" but its more than worth it. If you want to make your images "sharp" and really pop, there are better ways with the inworld given tools. Sharpening IS visible and the only thing i see from sharpening is that it ruins the image, every single one. You show the very reason i said that in the first place. If you can't see the differences here, go to the tutorial page, scroll to the end and you'll see both versions of the images. They're really not that subtle, although pushing the sharpening too far would ruin the image, and that haloing would come into play. Differences can be seen between this and the image above. The image included here is the original before sharpening. It can make a big difference, although as with everything it depends on the image in question and how its used. You are definitely wrong however that sharpening an image is pointless. You're right though that in some instances, haloing can be caused when images are sharpened, and I'll be dealing with that in another tutorial soon. They're caused in this instance by enhancing the colours, which is something I will be investigating. The artifacts you've kindly ripped without persmission from the image I own are not created by sharpening the image. If however you prefer not to edit your images then keep doing that. Even if they're not thats no firm indication the images haven't been edited. Look at an image's Exif details on Flickr and there's a good chance Photoshop or Gimp will be mentioned. Wildlife project pics here, Biking Photog shoots here, "Suburbia" project here ! Mount St.I think you'll find most SL photographers edit their images. Lynux is, of course, more limited, but one of the posters above mentioned some options to check out. ![]() In fact, if you are using a Windows or Mac machine, the Canon software (Digital Photo Professional) has a pretty high quality Raw processor for their CR2s. As was mentioned above, there are tools that can enhance your work with Raw files that are worth looking at. Now, a consideration here is what use are you getting from your Raw file? It sounds like the plug-in you are using is doing basic conversion, but are there features for adjusting the Raw file? These Raw processing tools are a big part of why people shoot Raw in the first place - prior to converting and opening in an image editor you have some latitude in "developing" your photo that goes away once the image is converted. If you open a jpeg or a tiff it should open directly in the full Gimp editor without the intermediate conversion plug-in. So your plug-in opens the CR2 file and when you click OK it converts that Raw data into an image that then opens in Gimp. When done I can save it in a supported format after that. Gimp's plug in opens the image then if I just click ok, then the full interface open the image and I can edit the image using the full applications tools. I'm not quite sure I still understand because I'm doing it.
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